How To Germinate Monkey Puzzle Seeds

Monkey Puzzle Seed Germination.

I have germinated 100’s of Monkey Puzzle seeds and have a very high success rate, the reason being is I buy fresh seeds and use a tried and tested method, here are some hints and tips and details about the method I use to germinate my Monkey Puzzle Seeds.

SeedsWhen buying seeds there are certain things to look for that will improve the germination success rate, they are:- 

 - Green tails – When the seeds have fallen from the mother tree the tails of the seeds will be green, naturally fading over time to brown. The greener the tails the fresher the seeds.

- Texture of tails – When the seeds are fresh the tails are slightly flexible and soft to the touch, as the seeds age the tails will become less flexible and prone to snapping.

- Time of year – Monkey Puzzle seeds normally drop from the mother tree around September/October, this year (2008) they seemed to have dropped a lot sooner, maybe due to climate change. Buying seeds at this time of year can mean that the seller has fresher seeds, its worth asking the seller when the seeds drop.

- Where to buy – this year I have bought around 500 seeds and have bought them from various eBay sellers, my favorite eBay seller is Diabigboots. These are VERY fresh seeds and come from excellent 100+ year old stock. David the seller only seems to sell these fresh which is great, I bought some from him last year and the germination rates were VERY high indeed, David (and Cleo) are highly recommended.

The germination process

When germinating Monkey Puzzle seeds here is the process that I use

Soak the seeds

Soak the seeds in luke warm water for between 24 & 48 hours. I place all of my seeds in a bucket of water, here is a picture of some Monkey Puzzle Seeds soaking in a bucket: -

I allow the Monkey Puzzle seeds to soak for a minimum of 24 hours or until they sink, any that are still floating after 48 hours are less likely to germinate but I plant them anyway.

Sowing the seeds

I fill a seed tray with John Innes Number 2 soil and then remove the seeds from the bucket of water and stick the seeds into the soil about 1cm deep, do not cover the seeds with soil, most of the seed should still be visible after planting.

Place the seed tray into a heated propagator and wait. At this stage never allow the water to dry out, keep it moist but not wet. Here is a picture of 2 trays ready to go into a propagator: -

Monkey Puzzle Seeds ready to go into a heated propagator

Planting the seeds on

You need to do this anytime between 4 weeks and 2+ years after sowing the seeds, you will know when the time is right as the seeds start to ‘dance’. They start to lift themselves out of the soil, when this happens you need to pull the seeds out of the seed tray being very careful, I use a knitting needle to loosen the soil around the seed to ensure the roots are not damaged, not damaging the roots is critical.

I then fill a 9cm square plant pot with a shallow layer of stones to aide drainage and then top the pot up with John Innes Number 2 soil. My Monkey Puzzle seem to love John Innes.

Once the pot is ready I use my finger to jab a hole just deep enough to plant the seed and tap root in about the same depth as it was in the seed tray and then fill the hole in around the seed, I then water lightly.  During this process take great care not to damage the root. At this stage the seed is not showing anything green and remains just a seed with a tap root.

Over the next few weeks/months one of 3 things will happen

1 - The Monkey Puzzle tree will start to grow outside of the seed and you will see the tree emerge at the side of the seed, the seed will eventually detach itself and can be thrown away. 

2 - The Monkey Puzzle tree will grow inside the seed, if this happen you will need to pull the seed case off when it feels loose enough to do so.

3 - Nothing - The Monkey Puzzle seed did not survive, this is rare but does sometimes happen.

Caring for your Monkey Puzzle Tree

I leave my Monkey Puzzle in pots as I don’t have any room to plant them out, I only water them when they need it which is usually about every 2 weeks, do not allow your pots to sit in water. Monkey Puzzle trees do not like it when their roots sit in water, excellent drainage is required. I have found that if the roots do sit in water the tips of the branches go brown and the branch will die, sometimes the entire tree will die. The key to growing Monkey Puzzle trees in pots is drainage, drainage and more drainage, oh and good old John Innes number 2.

As of August 2008 I have approximately 150 Monkey Puzzle trees that are 11 months old and around 40 that are 2 years plus, I have also just started germinating ~500 more seeds. I have no idea why I have so many or what I will do with them. I have already given lots away to people who commit to growing them responsibly.

Monkey Puzzle Trees are like Marmite, you either love them or you hate them, I love them.

My Heated Propagator

Much to the delight of my better half, I have a small heated propogator on the kitchen windowsill. I have different seeds in here at different times, at the moment it is full of Cactus seeds. I am currently propogating the following seeds: -

Ferocacus
Carnegia Gigantea Saguaro
Cereus
Oreocereus
Coryphantha
Melocactus
Rebutia
Haageocereus

Here is a picture with the lid on: -

Heated Propogator with the lid on

and here is a picture with the lid off: -

Heated Propogator with the lid off

In the Growbox - Cactus Germination

OK, so I finaly got round to taking some pics of inside my cactus germination growbox today. I’m not very good with the camera so forgive the quality of the images. My dad is going to come round soon and photograph everything in detail so until that happens you will have to put up with my snaps.

So here is the box: -

Cactus Germination Box - High Humidity

I bought the following seeds on eBay recently: -

Carnegia Gigantea Saguaro
Oreocereus
Cereus
Haageocereus
Coryphantha
Ferocacus
Melocactus
Rebutia
Echinocactus
Cleistocactus
Echinocereus
Notocactus
Parodia
Blossfeldia
Gymnocalycium
Mamillaria

Here are some close up’s of Cereus, Haageocereus and Coryphantha seeds germinating nicely: -

Cactus seeds germinating

I also bought a pack of 1000 mixed seeds, here is a picture of them germinating: -

Pack of 1000 mixed cactus seeds germinating

The humidity in the box is very high and as I also have a soil warmer in the grow box I expect high germination results.

How to Grow an Olive Tree in a Container

Olive trees add Mediterranean flair to any abode. You don’t need to live in Southern Europe or California to enjoy the leathery, gray-green leaves of an olive tree. Neither do you need to own a garden for olive trees can be grown on balconies or indoors quite easily.

Most nurseries offer potted olive trees for sale. You will need to repot the olive tree a year later as the roots will start getting crowded in the normal container. To make your olive tree comfortable I suggest you buy yourself a large terra cotta pot with a drainage hole at the bottom, fast draining potting soil and a balanced houseplant fertilizer on the same day.

For your olive tree locate a spot which is situated near a south facing sunny window. Your olive tree will require 6 hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. The pot should not be placed near a radiator or heat vent. Also consider that if the plant is placed to close to the window this could act as a magnifying glass and “burn” the olive tree.

After you have found a pleasant spot for your olive tree you will need to transplant your tree into the pot. I suggest you position the terra cotta pot first and bring your soil and tree to the pot and work there because once the pot is filled with soil it can be very heavy to reposition.

First fill the terracotta pot half way with the potting mix.

Then moisten the potting mix.

To remove the olive tree without damage to the roots from the original container you will have to clutch the rim and then turn the pot upside down.

Tap the pot gently with the heel of your hand.

The olive tree will slide out.

Pick up the tree and loosen the sides of the root ball with your thumbs.

Position the root ball of the olive tree so that it is about 1 inch below the rim of the pot.

Then fill the pot with the rest of the soil mixture.

Firm the soil around the olive tree.

Then water thoroughly.

You will know when to water your olive tree by putting your finger into the soil mixture. If this feels dry 1 inch below the surface, then water well. In the colder seasons olive trees take a natural rest so you will need to water less in autumn and winter. But make sure the soil never dries out completely! In the winter you only need to fertilize once a month and in summer every two weeks.

You can prune the tips of the branches in spring to encourage a bushy growth on the head. Make the cuts where where a pair of leaves attaches to a stem.

Unfortunately olive trees sometimes are victimized by soft-bodied scale which is small yellowish brownish insects which attach themselves to the stems of the trees and suck sap from the plant. To eliminate the scale you will need to spray the tree with insecticidal soap. Garden centers have different types of remedies for indoor use.

Enjoy your olive tree.

Alissa Mattei is a degreed food technologist with a heart for olives. She is a sought after “olive consultant” and travels the world teaching food corporations how to recognize the quality of an olive so it can be introduced into a product range.

Alissa also is an expert on “olive oil tasting”. She owns and lives the life of her dreams together with her husband on a huge olive plantation, where together they run one of the most popular luxury guest houses in the heart of Tuscany. The guest house is simply called Casa Montecucco which in English means the house on the hill.

Visit Alissa at http://www.casamontecucco.com/